Hello Manati and goodbye Iquitos

This morning I visited the Programa de Ecosistemas Acuiticos which has a program to save the Manati which are in danger of extinction. (I forgot my camera and therefore have added this picture from the net). The Manati are really large and slow creatures who feed on the plant life (each adult Manati eats 70kg of plants per day) and therefore are vital to the ecosystem as they stop the rivers from clogging up. I was able to play with them and bottle feed the young ones with milk. Their skins felt amazing (like rubber wet suits) and they gently nuzzled on my fingers and/or rolled over for me to rub their pink tummies. This afternoon I say goodbye to Iquitos and fly back to Lima to prepare to go to Cuba the day after. Sharon left Australia yesterday to start her journey to Cuba and has already faced flight changes with her direct flight now going through Sydney and suffering a three hour delay. Oh the joys of travelling.

Butterflies and more

Today I visited the world famous Butterfly Farm where they not only have butterflies but a lot of wild animals which are being rehabilitated to return to the wild. Again, many of these have been confiscated by poachers trying to sell them on the black market. Had a great time feeding, patting and playing with many of the animals. In addition I am getting to know Iquitos quite well and I was able to travel around the city by mototaxi and boat using the twenty three words of Spanish I have learnt. Adiós para ahora mis amigos.

A sloth-full day in the Amazon

Spent another day in the Amazon where we saw the Yagua (Jaguar) tribe of Indians and participated in some of their ritual dances and learnt to use a blow dart (no animal would ever be in danger from me). We then went into the wilds and saw a whole lot of animals which was supplemented by a region where many wild animals interact with people. I will let these pictures of sloths, toucans, crocodiles, snakes and monkeys speak for themselves. Another fascinating day of interacting with both the Amazon river and the Amazon jungle. PS: The red/orange face is due to the remnants of red markings painted on our faces for the ritual dancing.

Meeting the relatives

Today was an amazing day as I finally got into the Amazon jungle. We started at 7am with a boat trip down the Amazon and some of its tributaries. It was pouring rain and the river was flowing quite fast - it was quite a trip bouncing up and down in a small power boat. We got to the jungle and saw lots of different native birds. We also saw some pink dolphins (they looked silver to me) and lots of insects. We then went to Monkey Island where the wild monkeys came out of the trees and literally jumped in the boat looking for food. We fed them lots of bananas and lemons and they sat in our laps eating the food - this was a spectacular experience and worth the trip just on its own. We then visited a couple of Indian encampments and hiked a little in the jungle until it was time to come back. By this time the sun was out and the rain had stopped. The river was extremely peaceful and picturesque and the boat trip back was idyllic. It was just an amazing day to experience - worth the whole trip just by itself

Sites and sights to see

Had a very busy day today and visited the floating village (see picture), the market and the animal rescue zoo. It is currently the rainy season (although there has been a shortage of rain in the last week) and the Amazon continues to rise. Eventually, it will rise to the level where the two people are standing in the picture. The houses are built to rise and float on the river and all of these houses will be floating within the next few weeks or so depending on when the rain comes. The market is absolutely amazing - think of Victoria market and multiply by five - there is everything you can possibly imagine. The rescue zoo is also quite amazing with many animals being rescued from both injury in the jungle and from poachers which have illegally caught them to sell on the black market. Most animals are rehabilitated and returned to the jungle but there are a few who will remain at the zoo for their own protection.

Iquitos - here I am

Finally arrived in Iquitos at 5.30pm after the plane flight was delayed for one hour. I had a whole row of seats to myself on the plane - sheer luxury. The sight of the Amazon, both the river and the jungle as we flew into Iquitos was absolutely amazing. Unfortunately, I couldn't get my camera out so will take some pictures when I fly out. Was picked up at the airport by a very modern SUV with great air conditioning and taken to the Ambassador Hostal which also has great air conditioning in the room. Iquitos is hot and humid - the guide told me it is almost 100% humidity and my dripping clothes were a testament to this. Saw the Amazon river and tomorrow I am going out to see some of the wildlife before I trek/canoe into the jungle for a couple of nights stay. The rainy season has started and the river is rising quite rapidly. Many of the houses are built on bamboo/balsa so they can rise with the river. The main transport in Iquitos is the motorcycle or mototaxis which are like motorized rickshaws. There are very few cars around and they are very much the exception rather than the rule

Iquitos - I can taste it

Bought my flight to Iquitos for tomorrow. This picture shows the two agents with my flight and hostel tickets - all finalized. I plan to do a few day trips to see some of the Amazon and have received some really good advice from a traveller who has just returned from Iquitos about a good jungle trip to see alligators, piranhas, jaguars and anaconda. Looking forward to having a swim in the Amazon as well. Based on a lot of advice I have made sure I have a room with air conditioning (just like the conquistadors when they first arrived in Peru :) ). Next blog will hopefully come from Iquitos - at last.

Free at last, free at last - Lord Almighty - free at last

This picture shows me in Peruvian poncho about to leave the hospital - somehow I thought the garb was highly appropriate. I am now ensconced in a hostel in Miraflora - in the bridal room (don't worry - the irony has not escaped me). I got the room at a really cheap rate because they all felt sorry for me being in hospital. I must add that this is the same place that I stayed in last time I was in Miraflora and the staff were/are really great. Hugs and kisses all round on my return and long explanations of what I have been up to. I am already planning my trip to Iquitos to visit the jungle, swim the Amazon, run with the animals and drink lots of Ayahuasca (look it up). In preparation I went for a long walk and ended up buying fresh rolls and food at the supermarket which I am really looking forward to eating after a lengthy quota of hospital food. Oh the simple pleasure of life!!!

I Scream (Icecream) - but no-one hears me eat

Today, for the first time after being back in Lima, I got to walk around the hospital precinct. During this time I was able to purchase an icecream. I am sure that there will be those who disagree or who think I am exaggerating but - this was the best single bit of food created anytime in the history of human kind. It was so good that I let out a howl of delight startling both my nurse escort and a good proportion of the Lima population. So good, in fact, that it gets a whole blog entry dedicated just to it - to remember forever its succulent chocolate covering, the creamy enticing interior toffee, the strong piquant nuts embedded throughout and the noble and sturdy stick holding it all together. Not just an icecream - but a singular piece of art never to be recreated again. This gastronomic delight almost made me forget the weeks of hospital food which, although acceptable, faded further into insignificance upon each delicate bite. Long live the memory of the icecream which I have decided to name Ambrose after Ambrosia, the food of the ancient Greek Gods.

Doctor, doctor, give me the news

After twenty odd days in hospital in Cusco it was decided to transfer me to the much lower altitude of Lima and so I arrived in Clinica San Borja on the 4th January after taking a plane flight from Cusco airport to Lima airport. Immediately, team Andre swang in to action and every part of me was xrayed, scanned, prodded, poked, radiated, hooked up, monitored and ultrasounded. I saw my heart, lungs, blood system, colon, liver, kidneys and other parts I didn't know existed in action as they tried to find the root cause of the difficulties I am/was having. The working theory is that there was some sort of pulmonary thrombosis accentuated by the high altitude and the original pneumonia. Anyway, am doing pretty well at the moment and breathing is much more regular. Again, I couldn't ask for better service or treatment and I feel like I am in very good and caring hands.